Skirting boards are a really elegant and stylish finish in a space that can really help a space come alive. They are basically there to cover the distance between the floor and the plaster and to avoid harm to the plaster from any effects. We defend the walls from regular bumps and scuffs and deliver a reasonable level of toughness and resistance. check it out for more info.
Skirting boards have been very thick over the past few days, so much so that they have mostly been installed over two parts to meet the height. Nevertheless, the pattern in skirting boards design has reached a more of a happy medium in more recent years where 125 mm or 150 mm boards are now more prevalent. Wide skirtings in spaces with low ceilings do not look good either.
Skirting comes in a variety of fabrics, both synthetic and hardwood.
Redwood in the cheaper timber range is quite popular but the more quality skirting boards will be made from solid oak. The main advantage of using Solid Oak Skirting boards is that it will easily take bumps and tear without scratching, denting or requiring repainting owing to the Oaks intrinsic toughness.
Replace Previous Skirting Boards
It is fairly simple to remove the old skirting in order and you can do this with a hammer bolster chisel and crowbar. When you encounter a particularly stubborn skirting board piece, it may have been repaired with nails or screws, which will be difficult to detect on the skirting front as the heads are lined with filler. If you can find the actual screws that hold the board in position, you might just remove the screws before the old boards are removed.
Before you set up your new skirting board, prepare the boards that meet at the room corners. Many corners are intended to be rectangular, and it follows that fitting skirting boards around such a corner, cutting the mitre will be 45 degrees, so pre-cutting miter blocks may be obtained at this angle to facilitate the accurate cutting of these repeated cuts. Ideally however, skirting boards with miters are best for cutting, because they provide more leverage.
An uneven floor may leave ugly gaps underneath the skirting.
You should label and cut the bottom of the skirting to correct this, so that it can fit the floor pattern. Under the skirting surface, you should move the little wedges until it is even. Ensure that the current skirting board is the same height as the one you’re removing, otherwise you’ll have a crack between the top of the skirt and the bottom of the plaster that has to be fixed.
A grab adhesive is best for fastening the skirting to the wall particularly if you want to stain or varnish the boards. This may also depend on how solid the wall is. When you fasten to a stud petition wall you can just glue the skirting to the stud work or if it’s a brick wall you can smash wooden wedges into the holes between the bricks and then screw them into the wedges.
If you fasten the skirting to a long room or hallway wall, you may need to make a joint before you reach a corner. Before the angle may be applied to the skirting, it would be important to label the skirting board itself to indicate the location of the miter edge, this is achieved by positioning the board in place against the ground, then labeling the base of the skirting where the outer lines intersect on the surface, with another label at the top of the plaster arris.